If you’d told me my favourite Airbnb would be a high-rise with no balcony, I’d have laughed. Then I went to Vienna.
I landed in Vienna from Amsterdam, expecting to wander about a bit, eat a vegan sausage or two, and then get on with the rest of Austria. What I didn’t expect was to find myself completely glued to the window of my Airbnb. A wall of glass looked out across the Danube River, and I just sat there reading, staring at thunderstorms over the mountains. Honestly? I didn’t even want to leave the apartment.
It’s one of the most peaceful, beautiful places I’ve ever stayed in. No balcony, no garden, just views. Floor-to-ceiling windows. The kind of spot that makes you feel like a very calm, very lucky human.
Vienna: Surprisingly Cool, Super Vegan-Friendly
I did eventually drag myself away from the view. Vienna turned out to be very walkable, which I loved. There are swimming platforms dotted along the Danube, and yes, people actually swim in it. An actual swim-friendly river. I’m from the UK where our rivers are mostly filled with, let’s be honest, pollution and poo. So seeing people just hop in for a dip was…refreshing.
Vienna’s U-Bahn (their version of the Underground) is great, but I preferred walking. I’d follow the line above ground, walking alongside the tracks over bridges, past the split in the river, watching locals zoom by on scooters and mopeds. And yes, in Austria, if your moped is under 50cc, you can legally ride it in the cycle lanes, terrifying but kind of fun.
I found vegan food everywhere. There was one place doing vegan Viennese hot dogs with proper Austrian beer overlooking the river, I did a separate blog about that on my vegan blog, because it deserved its own moment. I’ll link it here.
I also found a couple of bookshops that sold English-language books, which was a godsend because I was absolutely devouring novels with that river view.
Vienna’s packed with culture too, obviously. I saw the famous mechanical clock, the Cathedral, the Jedenplatz Holocaust Memorial, and the synagogue, which was being guarded by the military at the time. Europe was having a bit of a far-right wobble, and the presence was heavy.
Driving in Vienna: Or How I Accidentally Fought a Car for an Hour
Eventually, I needed to pick up my hire car to head for the Alps. The taxi to the rental place took some weird route and I was briefly convinced I was being kidnapped (thanks, Google Maps). I wasn’t.
Then I picked up the car and tried to drive it out of a central Vienna underground car park. On the wrong side of the road. In a self-driving car I didn’t realise was self-driving. It was literally fighting me. An hour later, I realised I wasn’t going mad, the car just thought it was better at driving than I was. It wasn’t wrong.
Obertauern: The Ghost Town Ski Resort in Summer
The drive to Obertauern was long but stunning. The mountains were dramatic, the roads were fast, and yes, I let the car take over when things got twisty. I don’t usually rent cars, but it was the only way to reach the Austrian Alps properly.
I stayed in the ski resort of Obertauern, totally empty in the off-season, which made it eerily wonderful. My Airbnb there was spotless, high-end, and overlooked a mountain. It also had a drip. A constant, maddening drip in the wall that nearly broke me. I don’t even like music, but I had to put some on just to drown it out. Slept with earplugs and an audiobook on. Gorgeous torture.
Still, because my Vienna apartment was so cosy, I’d spent loads of time indoors reading. The drip in Obertauern forced me to go out and explore, which turned out to be a blessing.
Hiking the Peaks and Finding My Confidence
One morning, I looked out the window, saw a peak, and thought, “I’m climbing that.” I followed the trail markers, trusted my gut, and made it to the top, my first solo summit without a mapped-out route. That gave me the confidence to hike the rest of the area. Waterfalls, forests, alpine paths. It was breathtaking. And there’s always a cold beer waiting for you at the bottom in Austria. That’s my kind of hiking culture.
Eisriesenwelt: The World’s Largest Ice Cave
From Obertauern, I drove to Eisriesenwelt, the world’s largest ice cave. It’s incredible, but hard work. You have to park, walk, ride a terrifying cable car (it does a little shake in the middle, which everyone screams at), then walk again, and finally climb hundreds of steps inside the cave. Two kilometres total, in freezing darkness.
They handed us oil lamps and told us there were no lights inside. I panicked. Thankfully, I didn’t end up holding one (they ran out — then offered again, but I declined), which meant I had my hands free to take pictures. Our guide said, “The boss is away, take as many photos as you want,” which felt slightly illegal but very exciting. He confirmed we had permission to post them, so I will, and if anyone from the cave sees this and disagrees, let me know and I’ll take it down.
Salzburg and the End of the Road (Literally)
I also popped into Salzburg for the day. It was mostly shops and some Sound of Music sites (I think, don’t quote me on that). I didn’t explore it like I did Vienna. I mostly remember buying a Samsonite suitcase because I’d had it with my backpack.
Funny thing is, I’m back to backpacking now. You adapt. You figure out your limits. I needed a suitcase for France. I need a backpack for Mexico. It’s all about what kind of stress you’re willing to carry, literally.
I eventually dropped off the car in Salzburg and took the train to Germany. Unexpected twist: there was passport control at the border. Proper police walking up and down the train. I thought the Schengen zone meant no borders, but Germany had closed theirs at the time. It felt like being in a Cold War spy movie. I kind of loved it.
Final Thoughts: Why Solo Travel in Austria Was a Win
Austria gave me so much. Confidence, mountain air, vegan food, beer, and some of the best accommodation I’ve ever stayed in. It’s ridiculously safe, easy to navigate, and full of natural beauty, plus, very vegan-friendly in cities like Vienna.
Would I recommend solo travel in Austria? Without hesitation. Just maybe check if your Airbnb has a dripping wall first.
Before You Go…
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