Tag: south east asia travel

  • Solo Travel in Phu Quoc: One Month of Sun, Sand, and Power Cuts

    Solo Travel in Phu Quoc: One Month of Sun, Sand, and Power Cuts

    Phu Quoc is a tropical island off the southwest coast of Vietnam, sitting in the Gulf of Thailand and just a short flight from Ho Chi Minh City. Known for its white-sand beaches, palm trees, and clear waters, it’s Vietnam’s largest island and a popular spot for both backpackers and resort-goers alike. On paper, it sounds like paradise. In reality, it’s a bit more complicated.

    After months of non-stop travel around Europe, Southeast Asia, and Australia, I arrived just before Christmas – completely burnt out and desperate for a break. My plan was to spend a month doing as little as possible. And honestly, that’s exactly what I did.

    Getting to Phu Quoc: The Luggage Incident

    I flew into Phu Quoc from Ho Chi Minh City with VietJet Air for about £30. Delays come practically free with the ticket, so that part didn’t surprise me. What did surprise me was being told to wait by the check-in desk after my luggage had already disappeared down the conveyor belt. No explanation, just a vague hand gesture.

    After some confused questioning, I finally got, “Luggage check. If okay, you go.” Which was both reassuring and not. Of course, it turned out fine – apparently, this happens sometimes with VietJet. But for those few minutes, I was fully convinced I was about to get arrested for smuggling sun cream.

    Arriving and Settling In: House Geckos and Power Cuts

    My Airbnb in Ong Lang was small, clean, and came with house geckos – which are basically Southeast Asia’s answer to house spiders in the UK. I got quite attached to them, so much so that when I found one of the little house geckos trapped and killed in the door, I was devastated. I cried and moped around for an entire day, which I realise makes me sound a bit ridiculous, but there it is.

    Power cuts, however, were a different story. At least once a week, the electricity would go out for 12 hours straight. Even if you tried to escape to a café or restaurant, you’d just end up sitting next to a roaring generator. Even on the beach, you could hear them. It’s like trying to relax inside an engine.

    The Stray Dogs Incident: A Lesson in Rabies Anxiety

    On my first day in Phu Quoc, I set off to find the beach. After wandering around in the heat for far too long, I eventually gave up because every path seemed to end at a resort that wouldn’t let me through. Hot, tired, and slightly defeated, I decided to head back to my Airbnb.

    That’s when I ran into them – a pack of stray dogs blocking the narrow path. Now, I’ve got this probably overly irrational fear of getting rabies. I didn’t get my rabies jabs before I left, which, looking back, was a mistake. If you’re planning to travel somewhere with a high risk of rabies, don’t be like me. Get the jabs.

    Anyway, the dogs were barking like I’d wandered into their personal garden party uninvited. They definitely weren’t planning to let me pass. Then this man came along and said he’d help me through. Which he did – by waving a stick at the dogs and getting them all riled up. Brilliant.

    At that point, I had no choice but to walk through because I had absolutely no idea how to get back to my Airbnb without passing them. So I did the only thing I could: I walked very slowly while they yapped at my heels, fully convinced that one of them was about to bite me and give me rabies. Spoiler: that didn’t happen.

    But it did make me spend the first week or so in Phu Quoc absolutely petrified of stray dogs. And Phu Quoc has a lot of stray dogs. Like, everywhere you look, there they are – hanging around beach bars, wandering down streets, eyeing you with that “I own this road” kind of look.

    Looking back, it’s almost funny. Almost.

    Ho Quoc Pagoda overlooking the sea in Phu Quoc, Vietnam, during solo travel. The temple’s red-tiled roofs, ornate carvings, and surrounding greenery create a serene atmosphere with an ocean backdrop.
    Ho Quoc Pagoda – serenity with a side of construction noise

    Daily Routine: The Beach, Spring Rolls, and Margaritas

    Most days, I’d get up, walk down a quiet street towards the sea, and find a spot to drop my stuff on the beach. For the first time as a solo traveller, I actually felt safe leaving my things on the sand while I swam. The water was perfect – not too hot or soupy, but not too cold either. The further out you swam, the cooler it got. I’d stay out for an hour or so, just floating without a care in the world.

    Since my Airbnb only had a mini-fridge (and a loud one at that), I ended up eating out most days. I survived mainly on fresh spring rolls, french fries, and beer, with the occasional tofu banh mi thrown in for variety.

    On the way to the beach, I always passed a lady with a tiny street bar selling cocktails. She made the most brilliant margaritas, with just the perfect amount of salt around the rim. I probably got a bit too attached to that street bar, but at that point, a good margarita felt like a lifeline.

    K-Mart and the Horror Street

    There’s a K-Mart near Ong Lang, which I optimistically assumed might be similar to Thailand’s 7-Eleven. It wasn’t. K-Mart is like a sad, tropical Poundland with less charm and fewer options. Useful for emergency snacks but a bit of a letdown.

    Worse than K-Mart was this one particular road nearby lined with little shops displaying tanks crammed with giant live fish and cages full of live chickens. I physically couldn’t walk down that road. This made navigating where I was staying a nightmare. I ended up taking a mile-long detour most days just to avoid it. Practical? No. Necessary for my sanity? Absolutely.

    View of the massive water park and resort development on Hon Thom Island during solo travel in Phu Quoc, Vietnam. Water slides and construction sites dominate the landscape, contrasting with the surrounding greenery and blue sea.
    Hon Thom Island – paradise with a theme park twist

    The Cable Car to Hon Thom Island: Paradise Lost

    I did one proper touristy thing: took the cable car to Hon Thom Island. The views were stunning – turquoise water, untouched islands, the works. But when I actually landed, it felt like being dropped into a theme park nightmare.

    To my shame, I went back a second time with some friends I’d met in Thailand and actually enjoyed it. As much as I hate the whole idea of ruining a paradise island with a theme park, I ended up having a surprisingly fun day.

    Phu Quoc’s Struggle with Tourism

    Phu Quoc is beautiful – there’s no denying that. But you can also see how it’s being ruined by tourism. There’s this desperate scramble to make money from tourists, with tuk-tuks, souvenir shops, and new resorts springing up everywhere. It feels dirty, a bit commercialised, and just off.

    Most people I’ve spoken to feel the same way. They’re glad they visited, but they wouldn’t go back. It’s a bit like watching a paradise get buried under cheap hotels and theme parks.

    The Guilt of Solo Travel and Burnout

    There’s this guilt that creeps in when you’re a full time solo traveller. My friends back home are working nine-to-fives, and I’m the one they message saying they’re jealous. They see the beaches and the sunsets, but not the part where I sit on those beaches feeling like I’m wasting my money and my time.

    It feels almost criminal to be in a place that most people would dream of visiting and not be making the most of it. But the reality is, sometimes you just don’t have the energy to go island-hopping or tick off every excursion. And then comes the guilt – of being in paradise and still wanting to do nothing at all.

    Sunset over the ocean in Phu Quoc, Vietnam, with a kayak on the water and a person lounging on rocks. The sky is a mix of orange and pink hues, capturing the serene side of solo travel in Phu Quoc
    Sunset Ong Lang

    Final Thoughts on Phu Quoc

    Phu Quoc wasn’t what I’d call paradise, but it did have its moments. The water was perfect, the spring rolls were addictive, and I did manage to recharge – at least a bit. But between the power cuts, stray dogs, and the frantic push for tourism, it’s hard to ignore the cracks.

    I wouldn’t go back, but I don’t regret going once. At the very least, I left with a solid tan, a questionable addiction to fresh spring rolls, and some mildly traumatic memories of stray dogs and theme park rides.

    Before You Go…

    If you’re planning your own solo trip my Solo Travel Lifeline might come in handy. It’s like having a travel buddy in your pocket – without the awkward small talk.

    Need a ready-made plan? Check out my 3-day travel itineraries for popular destinations – they’re packed with tips and can save you a lot of guesswork. If you want something more personalised, I also offer custom itinerary planning to make sure your trip goes smoothly.

    Need a place to stay? I’ve got some handy affiliate links for Booking.com and Expedia to make planning a bit easier. If you book through them, I may earn a small commision – at no extra cost to you – so you’d be helping a fellow traveller out.

    And if you want real time action, follow me on Instagram, TikToK or join the Sisterhood of Solo Travellers on Facebook for tips, stories, and the occasional travel mishap.

    If you’re interested in Southeast Asia, you might also enjoy my posts about Koh Lanta and Siem Reap.

    Want to stay in the loop? Subscribe below for the latest from Sisters Uncharted – straight to your inbox!


  • Solo Travel in Siem Reap: Temples, Tranquility, and a Touch of Chaos

    Solo Travel in Siem Reap: Temples, Tranquility, and a Touch of Chaos

    Siem Reap is one of those places that completely catches you off guard. It’s known for the legendary Angkor Wat, but the city itself has its own unique energy – part laid-back charm, part chaotic adventure. If you’re planning solo travel in Siem Reap, here’s what you can expect, based on my own experience (which, as usual, involved a fair bit of unexpected drama).

    This post contains affiliate links. If you book through these links, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. Thank you for your support!

    Arriving in Siem Reap: A Ghost Town of an Airport

    Flying into Siem Reap was an experience in itself. After coming from the madness of Ho Chi Minh City, stepping into Siem Reap’s airport felt like entering a parallel universe – quiet, barely any other planes, and eerily empty. Immigration and baggage claim were a breeze, and within minutes, I was outside meeting my pre-booked hotel taxi driver.

    This is when I should have known my immune system was about to be under attack. My driver spent the entire ride coughing, spluttering, and spitting into tissues, and I just knew – this was the day I got sick. (Spoiler: I was right.)

    Where I Stayed: The Angkor Sweet Night Hotel

    Thanks to Booking.com’s Genius perks, I ended up with a free upgrade at the Angkor Sweet Night Hotel, a lovely spot with a pool and a balcony. It was a great base – except for the small problem of being vegan in Cambodia.

    On my first day, I asked about food, and while the hotel staff kindly made me a basic rice and veggie dish, I wasn’t entirely convinced of its vegan-ness. I quickly realised Siem Reap wasn’t going to be the easiest place for plant-based dining.

    Exploring Siem Reap: Wide Pavements & Unexpected Order

    Siem Reap surprised me. Unlike other Southeast Asian cities where the pavement is an obstacle course of motorbikes and street vendors, here, I could actually walk around freely. Everything was cleaner and more structured than I expected, making it a really enjoyable place to explore.

    One of my favorite places? The Peace Cafe – a chilled-out, vegan -friendly haven with hippie vibes and delicious food. After filling up, I wandered along Siem Reap River, strolled through Pub Street (which gave me major Friday night in Reading energy), and soaked up the atmosphere.

    A massive tree with sprawling roots engulfs the ancient stone ruins of Ta Prohm Temple in Siem Reap, Cambodia. Its towering trunk reaches toward the clear blue sky, while the roots wrap around the weathered structure, blending nature and history.
    Ta Prohm Temple in Siem Reap. This temple, famous for its giant roots intertwining with ancient ruins, feels like stepping into another world.

    Angkor Wat: The Ultimate Temple-Hopping Marathon

    I booked a full-day tour with a sunset finish, which meant an early morning pick-up, waiting around at a random café, then being shuffled onto a different minibus.

    At Angkor Wat, I met an American solo traveler who kindly made sure I didn’t get permanently lost in the ancient ruins. (Seriously, there were so many people, and I somehow kept losing my group – but our tour guide had an uncanny ability to find us every time.)

    After wandering through the temple complex, we moved on to the Tomb Raider Temple (Ta Prohm) – which I absolutely loved. The massive trees reclaiming the ruins made it feel like nature was taking back its space, and I was living my Lara Croft fantasy.

    After exploring more temples (including Bayon Temple, famous for its massive Buddha faces and eerie bat-smelling interior), we finished the day with a sunset hike up Phnom Bakheng. The view? Stunning. The experience? A bit of an endurance test. You have to hike up well before sunset, which means standing at the top for what feels like an eternity. The real challenge? Getting back down in the pitch black. No lights, no clear path – just blind faith that you’ll find your way back to the minibus.

    Kulen Mountain: Waterfalls, Temples & Mysterious Vegan Street Food

    The next adventure? Kulen Mountain. This followed the same pattern: hotel pick-up, a café waiting game, then an all-day tour of temples, waterfalls, and viewpoints. Highlights included:

    ✅ Thousand Lingas – Ancient carvings along a riverbed.

    ✅ Massive waterfall – A great spot to cool off (if you can dodge the crowds).

    ✅ Reclining Buddha Temple – A massive, impressive Buddha statue lying atop the mountain.

    ✅ Mysterious vegan street food (without the street) – I tried some local food from pathway stall, which was supposedly vegan… but let’s just say I was highly skeptical.

    ✅ Frustratingly late lunch stop – After a full day of exploring, everyone just wanted to go back, but instead, we got dragged to a restaurant with limited vegan options.

    Still, Kulen Mountain was beautiful and well worth the visit. Just bring snacks, because the late lunch situation was not ideal.

    The stunning Kulen Mountain waterfall in Siem Reap Cambodia, cascading into a clear pool surrounded by lush greenery - a must-visit spot for solo travellers exploring Siem Reap
    Cooling off at the breathtaking Kulen Mountain Waterfall

    A Heavy But Important Experience: Killing Fields Museum

    Before my illness took hold, I also visited the Killing Fields Museum. It wasn’t a large museum – more of a mini-exhibition – but it was still an important visit. If you’ve been to the Killing Fields in Phnom Penh, you might already know much of the history, but this smaller museum still provided valuable insight into Cambodia’s tragic past.

    The Trip Downhill: Illness & Skipping the Floating Villages

    After Kulen Mountain, things took a turn. Remember that taxi driver? Well, his germs had fully won the battle against my immune system. I got hit with a horrible respiratory virus – the kind that makes breathing feel like trying to inhale through a straw.

    To make things worse, burning season pollution swept in, and I had zero energy to do anything. I had booked a tour to the floating villages, but after reading horror stories about it being a full-on tourist trap (and hearing about crocodiles kept in cages in the water), I decided to skip it altogether.

    Instead, I focused on recovering before my next destination: Battambang. And to avoid the nightmare of trying to figure out public transport, I booked a private taxi. Expensive? A little. Worth it? 100%.

    A woman with short, wavy hair, wearing a black t-shirt, shorts, and a grey backpack, strikes a large golden gong with a padded mallet at a Buddhist temple. The gong is mounted on a wooden frame in front of a rocky backdrop, with golden decorative elements hanging nearby. A metal donation box and small offering bowls sit below the gong.
    Striking the gong at the Reclining Buddha – felt like a moment of connection and reflection.

    Final Thoughts on Siem Reap as a Solo Traveler

    ✅ What I Loved:

    • The walkability – wide pavements, clean streets.

    • Angkor Wat & Ta Prohm – especially the Tomb Raider Temple!

    • The Peace Cafe – vegan-friendly, chilled vibes.

    • Kulen Mountain – stunning views, waterfalls, and temples.

    • Learning about Cambodia’s history through the Killing Fields Museum.

    ❌ What I Didn’t Love:

    • Finding vegan food outside of specific restaurants.

    • Getting sick thanks to my taxi driver.

    • The Floating Village tours didn’t seem ethical.

    Would I recommend Siem Reap? Absolutely – but go outside of burning season and brace yourself for temple overload.

    Before You Go…

    If you’re planning your own solo trip my Solo Travel Lifeline might come in handy. It’s like having a travel buddy in your pocket – without the awkward small talk.

    Need a ready-made plan? Check out my 3-day travel itineraries for popular destinations – they’re packed with tips and can save you a lot of guesswork. If you want something more personalised, I also offer custom itinerary planning to make sure your trip goes smoothly.

    Need a place to stay? I’ve got some handy affiliate links for Booking.com and Expedia to make planning a bit easier. If you book through them, I may earn a small commision – at no extra cost to you – so you’d be helping a fellow traveller out.

    And if you want real time action, follow me on Instagram, TikToK or join the Sisterhood of Solo Travellers on Facebook for tips, stories, and the occasional travel mishap.

    If you’re interested in Southeast Asia, you might also enjoy my posts about Koh Lanta and Phu Quoc.

    Want to stay in the loop? Subscribe below for the latest from Sisters Uncharted – straight to your inbox!